7am OBS, Thursday May 9th
Showers this morning, particularly Mauka as light ENE trades fill in toward lunch, then trending down into tomorrow.
Up & Rising SSW, Dropping tiny NW. Small East trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, noon, 3pm; plus, the 5p (recap-forecast).
North Shore:
Dropping 9 sec NW + remnant trade wrap. Nice and clean conditions but very small. Sunset 1-occ. 2'; Rocky Pt 1-1.5'; Pipe Flat'; Chuns 1-1.5'; Laniakea 1-occ. 2'; Ali'i Beach Park 0-1'. Overcast.West:
Up & Rising 18 sec SSW. Clean under lite ENE trades. Makaha is 1-2' occ. 3', breaking behind the reef. Mostly cloudy skies.Town:
Up & Rising 18 sec SSW. Surf's clean w/ lite ENE trades. Waikiki reefs are 1-3', Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 2-3' occ. 4'. Swell is still building.. Mostly cloudy skies.Diamond Head:
Up & Rising 18 sec SSW + tiny ENE trade wrap. Mostly clean conditions w/ the very lite trades. Surf's 2-3' occ 4' under overcast skies.Sandy's:
Up & Rising 18 sec SSW + tiny Trade swell. Decent conditions over the reefs at 2-3'. Shore breaks also fun at 2-3' under scattered clouds.East Makapu'u:
Dropping 7 sec ENE trade swell. Only slightly bumpy due to lite trades. Surf's 1-occ. 2' and breaking close to shore throughout the bay. Scattered clouds.Winds
5-10mph East Trade
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes
veering SE-SW winds, rain and isol. T storms
5-10mph ENE Trades very light
plenty rain and isol. T storms
5-15mph NE Trade
Filling back in
5-10mph ENE Trade
North
Primary
Dropping 9s NWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
Dropping 7s NEHaw: 0-1/2
Face: 0-1
smooth
Primary
Rising Later 10s NNWHaw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Secondary
Holding 11s NNWHaw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
divin , paddlin, fishin, sailin
Primary
Up & holding 11s NNWHaw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Secondary
Holding 7s NEHaw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Fair to good
Primary
Holding 9s NHaw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary
Rising Later 14s NNWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good
Primary
Up & Rising 15s NNWHaw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
Secondary
Dropping 10s NHaw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good
West
Primary
Up & Rising 18s SSWHaw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Secondary
Dropping 9s NWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores
Primary
Up & holding 17s SSWHaw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
Secondary
Rising Later 10s NNWHaw: 0-2
Face: 0-3
Good
Primary
Dropping Slow 15s SSWHaw: 2-4+
Face: 3-7+
Secondary
Up & holding 11s NNWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
Primary
Dropping 14s SSWHaw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Secondary
Holding 9s NHaw: 0-1
Face: 0-1.5
Good
Primary
Up & Rising 15s NNWHaw: 1-3
Face: 2-5
Secondary
Dropping Slow 13s SSWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
South
Primary
Up & Rising 18s SSWHaw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Secondary
Dropping 13s SHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Good offshores
3-5' later
Primary
Up & holding 17s SSWHaw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Primary
Dropping Slow 15s SSWHaw: 3-5+
Face: 5-9+
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Primary
Dropping 14s SSWHaw: 2-4
Face: 3-7
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Good
Primary
Dropping Slow 13s SSWHaw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Secondary
Rising Slow 18s SSWHaw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Fair to good
east
Primary
Dropping 7s ENEHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary
Holding 6s ENEHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair to good
Primary
Holding 6s ENEHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy
trade return
Primary
Holding 6s ENEHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Mushy
Primary
Rising 7s ENEHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Mushy
Current Swells:
Thursday 05/09Primary: Up & Rising 18s SSW surf @2-4
Marine Warnings:
Thursday 05/09None
Sailing Report:
Thursday 05/09Poor to Fair as light E to ESE winds prevail
Diving Report:
Thursday 05/09North shores: Fair to good due to tiny NNW swell and lite trades. Best bet: deeper dives; West shores: Good for most zones due to tiny NNW and small SSW swells and lite offshores; better for deeper dives. South shores: Fair-good overall for but a new moderate/large SSW swell is filling in. Lite trades but best bet are deeper dives. East shores: Fair due to small surf and lite onshores.
Oahu
Maui
Kauai
Big Island
Weather
Surf Advisory and Warning CriteriaLocation/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
Big Picture
INACTIVE.Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9
Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)
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